Korean Skewers at Kochi // New York City

For Michia’s birthday last fall, we decided to check out a tasting menu we’ve been excited to try since we moved to the city. Kochi, a Korean skewer tasting restaurant located in Hell’s Kitchen, currently tops Timeout’s list of the best restaurants in NYC, won Time Out’s Best of the City award in the restaurant category in 2021, and first received its Michelin star in 2021. Chef Shim is a force in the NY food scene, and has also opened his second venture, Mari, nearby. 

Ambience

The restaurant itself is relatively small and unassuming, and the kitchen can be seen from almost anywhere in the restaurant. The counter is a beautiful marble slab, and you can tell that this is a hip NYC restaurant the moment you walk in. I love when a restaurant has branded utensils, and Kochi had “KOCHI” labeled chopsticks holders, and small spoons that were so beautiful and utilitarian, we asked them where they were purchased (Amazon; similar here and here) and bought similar ones (these) to match our own set at home.

Drink

We love a good cocktail, and we ordered an “Autumn in Manhattan,” which featured a mix of rye, apple cider, and honey, among other ingredients, topped with a smoked cinnamon stick, which gave it a powerful aroma before you even sipped the drink. It was the perfect fall drink in a glass, and we’d definitely order it again.

Chef’s Signature Menu

The first thing I noticed about M’s menu was that it was topped with a “Happy Birthday!” This was such a nice and thoughtful touch. One of my pet peeves when a restaurant asks if you’re celebrating anything is when they don’t actually do anything to celebrate you once you’ve told them what you’re celebrating. Like, then why did you ask at all? But this was very nice.

As for the menu itself, I’m not sure it really adhered to the skewer concept as well as I wish it had, but let’s get into the actual dishes.

CORN: Corn fritter with yuba crumble, lotus root tuile, corn soup, and caviar

This dish was phenomenal. If you know the flavor of Korean corn soup, you can imagine how delicious it would be with this corn fritter, which was perfectly crispy on the outside, soft and flavorful on the inside. The presentation, dish, colors — perfection. I can almost forgive this dish for not being a skewer as it’s a soup, though the fritter could have been on a stick and dipped into the soup instead of being eaten in it…

AMBERJACK: Amberjack served with red quinoa, Korean pear, and kim bugak

This was so beautifully presented, in this lidded, very Korean dish. When we lifted the lid to uncover the food, the bright colors looked so fresh and fun. Unfortunately, the actual flavors were just ok, and I found the quinoa pairing a bit odd and not traditionally Korean.

It was fun, however, to watch the chefs make this intricate dish again and again, all night long. I love watching people who love their craft execute it, and this is the benefit of sitting at the chef’s counter.

SHRIMP TWIGIM: Crispy shrimp with Korean remoulade, celery root, and tomato gochujang

This dish was a highlight. A shrimp ball with Korean tartar sauce, it was the perfect balance of crunchy and savory with a tangy twist. It also seemed like a play on a Korean hot dog and a classic shrimp twigim which was cute. This was the best-executed, as a skewer concept.

HALIBUT: Braised halibut with crispy leeks, daikon, Korean jorim sauce, and mokgeolli foam

Probably my biggest fine-dining peeve is overcooked fish, and this halibut was definitely overcooked. It was also underseasoned and hard to eat off skewer sticks. Not my favorite.

DUCK: Duck leg confit with tomato marmalade, cherry ssamjang, and minari salad

The duck, on the other hand, was well-prepared, and both the tomato marmalade and cherry ssamjang were delicious.

SKIRT STEAK or A5 WAGYU: Galbi marinated American Wagyu skirt with spring onion, barley, and ramp chimichurri (Truffle supplement available for an additional cost)

The skirt steak was exceptional in terms of flavor. It was seasoned to perfection and had a lovely smoky finish. However, the pairing with barley was a bit unusual and didn’t quite work for me.

TROUT BIBIMBAP: Soy-marinated steelhead trout served with seasonal sprouts, candied anchovy, and seaweed rice (Sea urchin supplement available for an additional cost)

I love raw fish and I love bibimbap, and this was a really cute play on that.

Dessert

FROYO: Daechu frozen yogurt with crispy dates and fig compote

Kochi’s desserts, though. A real highlight. This date froyo was simply amazing — it was creamy, light, and not too sweet. The perfect palate cleanser.

ICE CREAM SANDWICH: Black sesame seed ice cream with chocolate sponge cake and misugaru cream.

This is Kochi’s classic dessert, and it was amazing. I still think about this dessert sometimes. It’s a cross between an ice cream cake (my favorite dessert growing up), and an ice cream popsicle, and it’s so playful and fun, while being Korean and innovative.

Bonus: Birthday Espresso Panna Cotta

Going back to celebrating with you, the chefs brought out this birthday espresso panna cotta (only one for M), with a lit candle, and it was such a nice touch. It was also very tasty — indulgent without being overly sweet, and perfectly balanced.

Service

Really good service. The staff were so friendly — they checked on us regularly, took photos for us multiple times, and all waved goodbye as we left. The only thing I would comment on here is that the pacing could have been improved. In general, we had to wait a while between courses, and speeding that up slightly would have made the meal feel more cohesive.

Final Thoughts

Overall, the food at Kochi was decent and done in an innovative way, but it was definitely much better value when the menu was priced at $75, compared to the current $135. I would highly recommend sitting at the Chef's Counter to watch the chefs work their magic in such a tiny kitchen. The chefs are more than happy to explain the dishes and cooking techniques, and it’s fascinating to watch them at work.

Kochi is definitely worth a visit if you're in the mood for something new and exciting. Just be keep your expectations in check and know that not every course will be a skewer.

To conclude, we’d say food was 15/20, ambience was 14/20, service was 18/20, and value for money was 15/20.